Sunday Roast Review: The Princess of Shoreditch

June 10, 2010

The Princess Of Shoreditch
Old Street
Beef, Pork, Chicken & Mixed Roast
From £13
Roasting: 7.8/10

The tyranny of abundant choice is the last thing anyone wants to face come Sunday lunchtime. Autonomy and freedom is all well and good, but when a nasty Saturday night hangover has reduced you to a blithering dribble, you just want to be spoon-fed to sleep.

Thankfully The Princess of Shoreditch is accommodating. The pub’s Sunday Roast menu takes away the pain of trying to pick between roast chicken, pork, or beef, by offering all three together on one plate of mollifying meat mayhem for £15.50.

Out of our table of 10, nine ordered the mixed roast (which goes to show how brave we all are). Crackles, who had celebrated his birthday the night before, decisively opted for the Roasted Kilravock Farm pork belly (£13), the drunken fool. We mocked his pitiful choice, as there was no way one measly belly of pork could out-satisfy a threesome of different meats, especially considering it included a slice of pork.

How wrong we were. When the food arrived and we’d tucked into our mixed roasts, it soon became clear that the Jack of all trades was a master of none. Whilst each slice of meat looked delicious, the beef was far too chewy, the pork a bit fatty, and the chicken much too dry.

Dismayed, we enviously watched Crackles stuff his face with juicy, tender chunks of pork and crunch his way through layers of gorgeously brown crackling, bastard. It should be noted that The Princess also offers a whole roasted organic chicken for two on their Sunday menu for £27, although they recommend you pre-order it. But who would order that with a mixed roast selection on offer? Not us, obviously.

The meat of course, is but one essential element of a Sunday Roast, so how did the Princess fare on the other parts? The duck fat roast potatoes were on the whole, wonderful, if but a little parched inside.

The roast vegetables – which included mashed swede, red cabbage, broccoli, and slightly undercooked carrots hidden under the slices of meat – were delicious and wholesome. The gravy was quite good if slightly watery, and the solitary Yorkshire pudding maintained its composure throughout an insensitive dissection (always a sign of a good chef).

Despite the fact the mixed roast failed to deliver on its promise of sublime satisfaction, we devoured every scrap like hungry dogs, for that is what we were.

Afterwards, feeling slightly unfulfilled, we ordered a selection of deserts (all £5.50) that included warm chocolate fondant, vanilla crème brûlée with mixed berry compote, and plum crumble with vanilla ice cream which our delightful waitress recommended.

Each one was simply a taste of heaven and perfectly presented, and soon we had forgiven The Princess for her meat misgivings, putting her failings down to our own inability to come to a decision. And considering the service was excellent throughout, with the large upstairs dining room providing the kind of homely wooden warmth one craves on a Sunday, we soon found ourselves marking The Princess up as an outstanding gastro pub.

Its location on a quiet Shoreditch street serves as a perfect launch pad for an afternoon of Sunday drinking, and as we twiddled our merry way through the cobbled streets exploring local taverns afterwards, the mantra of the S.A.S. seemed wholly appropriate for Crackles’ Sunday Roast glory. Who dares wins?

Meat ★★★★★★★☆☆☆ (7) – pork belly was more like an 8
Potatoes ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)
Veg ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)
Yorkshire ★★★★★★★☆☆☆ (7)
Gravy ★★★★★★☆☆☆☆ (6)
Serving Size ★★★★★★★★★☆ (9)
Menu Variety ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)
Service ★★★★★★★★★☆ (9)
Atmosphere ★★★★★★★★★☆ (9)
Value for money ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (7)

Total Roasting: (7.8/10)

Princess of Shoreditch on Urbanspoon


7 Responses to “Sunday Roast Review: The Princess of Shoreditch”

  1. tommyscoff Says:

    HAHA… Nice to see a bit of humour getting thrown into a food review. Great writing as well, keep it up.

  2. Hilary Says:

    I believe I ‘won’ in a similar fashion to this Crackles fellow at brunch at Hawksmoor where I enjoyed the splendidly simple bacon chop and eggs while my chums got stuck into the huge full Hawksmoor which, IMHO, is de trop.

    • ahh the Hawksmoor, interesting you say that Hilary. A certain gauntlet was thrown down a while ago, we’ll be going there this month to see what the fuss is all about. None of this brunch business though, it’s going to be the roast all the way.

      Good to know the chop stood tall however, we do love a good bacon chop.

  3. Fungus Says:

    how can you bag the meat out and then give it a 7??

    • 7 was the overall group consensus on the day, this is for all plates ordered so takes into account the pork belly as well.

      Basically 5 is standard. The mid-range. Nothing amazing, nothing really awful. It has to be a pretty average plate to get lower than a five.

      You could taste that The Princess had used good quality meat, so that leveraged a few marks, unfortunately it was just a bit too overdone.

      Hope this helps clarify the score for you Fungus.

  4. I love this blog and I love Sunday Roasts. This blog is like a well balanced Sunday lunch. Not too heavy, but entirely satisfying.

  5. […] Street Dining Rooms, The Princess of Shoreditch, The Eagle, The Coach and Horses, The Green, The Well, Modern Pantry, The Easton, The […]

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