Sunday Roast Review: The Crown

April 14, 2010

The Crown
Roast Chicken, Lamb, Loin of Pork and Sirloin of Beef.
From £11.50
Roasting: 7.7/10

They looked so perfect. Golden, crispy, and swimming in juice, and yet, when the fork slid through the beautiful layers of promise, it hit an impassable, indigestible, rock. Our dreams of finding a soft, fluffy, and luxuriously groomed core shattered like a pint glass in the face.

They lied to us. They tricked us. Like the foolish man, who takes a plentiful girl home only to find her boobs resemble coconut shells beneath a thick layer of bacon, the potatoes at The Crown were the Sunday roast equivalent of false advertising. Beautiful to look at, suggestively delicious, wholly underwhelming. The roast potatoes offered here would go wonderfully; with my wax fruit collection.

A little harsh? When taken as a whole, yes, The Crown’s Sunday roast offering was mightily impressive, with an absolute molehill of perfectly cooked vegetables that included chunks of honey-tainted carrots, crispy salted kale, parsnip chops, sumptuous broccoli, and an army of cheerful petits pois, all wonderfully tainted by whole cloves of garlic. Believe it or not, we had to leave half the veg as there was simply too much.

It was clear that we were in the hands of some seriously committed Sunday roasters when the meat arrived. The luscious lamb was £12.75, as was the pork, whilst the bombastic beef was a little bit more. There was also roast chicken. All of it was plumply roasted, and emphatically generous. No stingy chefs or PRDD around here, although Renardo blubbed, “Only one piece of crackling?” when his pork arrived.

The gravy too was flawless, with a rich and sophisticated pool of flavourful meat juice surrounding every millimeter of the plate, without drowning any of the essential elements (although Roasted Sundays heartily encourages drowning peas in a cup of gravy when no one is watching).

And the Yorkshire pud, although a little clammy and cake-like to chew, was able to perform its primary function as a welcome respite from the inevitable but welcome meat and veg chaos.

Combined with The Crown’s understated gastro pub surroundings, peaceful street-side patio, and friendly and fast service, it could have been the best Sunday roasting ever. They even had Fullers Honey Dew on tap, alongside proper Brit favourites like Chiswick Bitter, and London Pride (my Sunday staple, bitter shandy with ginger beer, went down like the Luftwaffe in 1940).

Inside, there were scruffy wooden tables, leather sofas, and a gorgeous traditional etched glass and mahogany bar, with an open kitchen in the rear – just enough to make you forget you’re inside the M25. And in winter, apparently an obligatory cosy fire glows brightly in the corner, which is essential for that other great Sunday pastime – canoodling with a ripe maiden.

So close, and yet so far, dear roaster of The Crown. Was it not for those damn roast potatoes, the lying little spuds…

Meat ★★★★★★★★★☆ (9)
Potatoes ★★☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆ (2)
Veg ★★★★★★★★★★ (10)
Yorkshire ★★★★★☆☆☆☆☆ (5)
Gravy ★★★★★★★★★☆ (9)
Serving Size ★★★★★★★★★★ (10)
Menu Variety ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8) – no veggie option, not that we care much for vegetarians
Service ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)
Atmosphere ★★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)
Value for money ★★★★★★★☆☆ (8)

Overall Roasting: (7.7/10)

Crown on Urbanspoon


6 Responses to “Sunday Roast Review: The Crown”

  1. Younas Says:

    Wow. If looks could kill. It appears a lovely looking roast – just look at the pool of gravy. I just wanna put on the budgie smugglers and dive right in.

  2. chris collins Says:

    Hilarious review! Made me hungry for a roast too. Mmmmm.

    • Chris – thanks, we like to keep things humorous around here. It goes well with the roasts. Check back next week for the latest installment…

      Younas – Indeed it was. Generous servings and the gravy was excellent, highly endorsed by all involved.

  3. Nick Says:

    “Not that we care much for vegetarians”

    I’m disappointed lads….

    • Sorry Nick, but sundays for us is all about the meat.

      Any other day of the week though, and you would struggle to stop us tucking into a decent chickpea and lentil curry or eggplant parmigiana!

  4. […] and Essex, The Winchester, The Island Queen, Bacchus, The Marquess Tavern, The Alwyn Castle, The Crown, The Old White Lion, The Fellow, The Scolts Head, The Prince, The Mucky Pup, The Charles Lamb, The […]

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